![]() It took me about a half second to realize I had just cut into the veneer for about 2 inches. ![]() If you have sprung for the teak/holly plywood you will want to use a very good finish!īy the way it took 2 1/2 sheets to do my C36.Īnother tip - I am a novice on woodworking and when I went to router the edges I screwed up and had the flooring piece face up instead of down when I started the router. You could also consider using the Interlux Perfect 2 part poly varnish as a tough seal although it might be a bit too slick. It looks as good as 5 coats of spar varnish but without the tint of varnish. The product I used is also used for gymnasium floors which gives it a nice finish but is not slick. It is tough as nails and repels water, although not waterproof. I have solid oak floors in my home and when I had them refinished this is what they used. Several (but not all) of the Bona products are oxygen cross linking polyurethane. I finished the bottoms and edges with epoxy and finished the tops with 2 coats of sanding sealer, a light sanding, then 3 coats of Bona Professional Satin. After that I fitted them on the boat, I then used a handheld power plane to reduce the boards to get an exact fit. I used the old boards as a template to cut them out but went for a slight bit oversized, then I used a laminate trimmer fitted with a round over router bit with a bearing to do the under edge. They wouldn't ship them because of the difficulty in handling so you either have to go get them or have them delivered by truck to a plywood dealer near you.Ĭutting and fitting isn't too hard but I recommend doing incremental fitting so that you don't get an edge too small. One a business trip to Houston I drove my pickup instead of flying and swung by a marine plywood supplier and picked up three sheets of teak/holly marine ply. The sole had all been epoxied underneath but the leaks and water damage came in through the top and the veneer finishes were just too far gone.įinally, after one refinishing I decided to replace. It was 'ok' for a while but never looked great. I rebuit a corner, constructing my own teak and holly section with an exacto knife after stripping and rebuilding the wood beneath with epoxy and filler. I pulled them up and did some rebuilding. When I bought my C36 in 2002 the floorboards were water damaged by the companionway. I have carpet runners on my cabin sole, which feel nice underfoot and would hide such a problem ) ![]() You could try an amber shellac, which I've used successfully to match patched in pieces on an oak hardwood floor with the 30 year old finish on the rest of the floor. Gel stains are great for hiding things like the green, purple and brown grain in poplar, but again, would tend to hide the teak and holly contrast. Staining would be complicated by the fact that there are two quite different species of wood, one almost white the other brown. ![]() You might try a teak cleaner/bleach followed by a light sanding with a random orbit sander I'd use a 400 grit or higher, since you don't want to sand through the veneer, which may be quite thin. If that's the case, then matching it up could be a challenge. If the entire piece seen in the pictures is already stripped, then it looks like the dripping water had destroyed the original finish and penetrated into the veneer. ![]()
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